Conca Dellà and Isona

Toward the eastern quarter of the Conca de Tremp the land rises gently and the local town, Isona, is the centre of rich agricultural activity. Although the landscape is perhaps not as dramatic as nearby areas it has lovely views of the Montsec ranges and the Serra de Carreu and the land use of the undulating valley floor with lots of woodland and orchards make it an attractive and accessible area in which to walk (see Our Favourite Walks guide). It also is the way to the Segre valley via the Coll de Bóixols. This route passes through miles of virgin forest set among dramatic cliffs – a very cautious drive indeed! This road (the L-511 Isona – Coll de Nargo) also gives access to the top of the Serra de Boumort natural park (see La Pobla de Segur) and Conca d’Alt) via Capdecarreu – the lane leaves the road at K20

A Heritage Zone

Whatever the Conca Dellà may lack in splendour it makes up for in historical sites, places of interest and convenience, especially with children in tow! Isona itself was a Roman town and its walls can still be seen. However the area’s architectural riches lie in Romanesque religious and military architecture. There are two important churches in the area, the XII C Santa Maria at Covet, which is noted for the carvings on the doorway showing scenes from the Old and New Testaments and Sant Esteve at Abella de la Conca, which has fine Lombard rings and a rare two story bell tower, above all it is stunningly located in a cleft in the Serra de Carreu. Set amongst miles of woodland the restored castle of Llorda, which has been restored and is open to the public, can be seen from as far away as Fígols, as can the nearby Castell d’Orcau.

Land of the Dinosaurs!

The real stars of local history hereabouts, however, have nothing to do with castles and kings! The Conca de Tremp was once an inland sea and the eastern part was swampy wetlands for many millennia. As well as attracting geologists from all over the world to study at Tremp’s Museum, the area is rich in fossils and the imprint of the age of the dinosaurs. Enormous clutches of eggs have been found near the village of Basturs, which also features unique sprg fed lakes which are a base for one of our walks (see Our favourite Walks guide) But perhaps the most impressive site are the footprints in the hillsides above Isona itself. To get there drive towards Boixols, the lane (signposted ‘Parc Cretaci’) forks away to the right, just beyond the turning for Abella de la Conca. Follow this for about a mile to its end where there is a car park and picnic site based around a small hermitage. The footprints are down the hillside some little way below. The museum of the Conca Dellà is mostly dedicated to the cretaceous period and offers guided tours and workshops – great for children of all ages. For those of a more sedentary disposition, however, the basement floor of the museum is dedicated to the region’s winemaking history.

Fine wines

The Conca provided all the wine for the high Pyrenean villages in the days before road transport from more productive regions and phylloxera decimated the industry. The museum provides a fascinating insight into a lost way of life with plenty of artefacts, period photographs, maps, etc. NB the area is making a comeback though. The Denominació d’Origen ‘D. O. Costers de Segre’ is gaining quite a reputation, with the Raimat bodega (actually this is near Lleida) earning a deserved reputation. All of the Raimat wines and cavas are good, while I recommend their Abadia red which is also available in the UK. Our local brand here in the Pallars Jussà is made by the Vila Corona bodega at Vilamitjana. You can visit it and buy wines there, however it’s a modern building and not interesting in its own right: shortly before arriving at Vilamitjana seek the lane on the left called the Nerrets. Vila Corona make several varietal wines, including a Cabernet Sauvignan, as well as ‘cooking’ wines. None are fabulous but worth a try.  The famous Miguel Torres brand has planted several of vineyards near Tremp dedicated to the noble vines, including one near Fígols, on the Pla de Nescala on the side of the road. Although the vineyard produces grapes for Torres concern it is owned by a Figolin and is planted with the Merlot variety grapes.

Isona

As well as the museum and the Roman walls Isona has a pretty town centre and a range of shops in keeping with it being the centre of the Conca Dellà. There are a couple of restaurants and a refreshment break at the Café Modern is a must. It’s on the old ‘main’ road, which skirts the town centre. There’s plenty of parking outside, but be careful as some of it is the bus stop!